Whilst gardening, there is a genuine need to be mindful of your own personal safety. At this moment in time, I am not talking about drastic injuries, but rather, some of the lesser annoyances that you may not have previously considered, if you are new to this mucking around in the garden thing.
Regardless of what it is that you are doing in the garden, or whether you are new at this or a seasoned hand, it's always a good idea to be prepared for any of those little surprises that may come upon you when you least expect. No matter if you are cutting flowers, digging a new vegetable plot, or excavating the entire backyard for your new landscape dream, you will encounter many common safety issues. Whatever the case, keep the following tips in mind when you begin any type of gardening project:
Heat.
To avoid any excessive heat when you are gardening, if possible, try gardening either early in the morning or late in the evening. Do be aware, that the hottest part of the day is between 10:00 am and 3:00 pm, so if possible, plan your gardening day accordingly. Although it may not seem like it, gardening can be a heck of a work-out and your fluid levels can become dangerously low. Knowing this, you should always keep a bottle of water handy whilst gardening, so you can remain adequately hydrated.
The afternoon hours are when the sun has the greatest strength, which can lead to heat exhaustion or other heat-related illness, if you have a tendency to over-do things. By choosing the coolest times of day and taking in plenty of fluids, you will be better equipped to actually complete your gardening project, without any health related surprises. AND - wear a hat!
Protection:
Sunburn is a also a consideration, to protect yourself from sun damage, wear lightweight long sleeved shirts and long pants. Wearing long sleeved clothes will also prevent mosquito and sand-fly bites. Keep sunscreen handy and make sure to apply it to all areas that will be exposed during your gardening day. Don't forget to cover the back of your neck and the tops of your ears. Also, be mindful to re-apply the sunscreen, if the day turns into an extended session in the garden. If you are like me and have an enormous nose, that not many hats can adequately protect, give that a going over with sun-screen, too. AND - wear a hat, anyway!
If the project at hand has you working with large expanses of bare earth, for extended periods of time, do not disregard the fact that reflected heat from the ground, can really knock you around before you know it. Keep the fluids up!
You will also want to consider wearing gardening gloves to protect your hands, always being mindful of what you are reaching into, especially if you find yourself reaching into grassy areas or darkened nooks. These areas may include tall weeds along the fence-line or similar, shrubbery or overgrown areas of your yard or garden, which could be a hiding place for snakes, spiders or other potential biting and stinging critters. Few things in life can compare to the dread that comes over you, when you realise, that the clump of weeds or leaves you have just gathered up, comes complete with it's very own host of enraged bull-ants, or nest of wasps.
Ultimately, deciding whether or not to undertake a gardening project, will largely depend on the type of project, your knowledge or skill, and your overall health. If you are doing simple stuff, like planting flowers or vegetable seeds, you shouldn't have any problems, as these are not time consuming, nor particularly arduous tasks. However, if the job you have set yourself involves extensive landscaping work, such as digging a pond or a complete redesign of the backyard, you may want to consider hiring a professional landscape contractor, who can complete the work without causing you any inconvenience.
Whatever your decision, it is better being safe in the garden, than sorry.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Do you Really Need a Fountain in Your Garden.
Most people desiring a fountain in their garden, are visualising the serene benefits of the natural ambiance it offers. Indeed, being around some water scene, can imbue you with much positive energy, just living in a garden with a fountain, or water feature has a kind of meditative effect to it, whether you are aware of it, or not. Fountains are also beneficial to people into Thai-Chi, yoga, or meditation, the contiguous sound of the water being a needful constant, allowing them to more clearly focus on what they're doing.
When you first decide to install a fountain, it would be advisable to put a lot of consideration into choosing one that will fit in with your garden's existing design. The same with any type of garden ornamentation, it must suit the general theme of the garden.
Will the water feature you are thinking of:
-- look out of place in your garden?
-- will it appear like it belongs there?
-- how will you be able to return it if you don't like it?
-- how are you going to get it home in the first place?
are there building code restrictions for stand-alone structures?
-- is there enough room where you want to put it?
-- does it come in any colour other than white?
-- will it attract ducks?
Changing your mind, after installation, may not be an option. Give some thought to the following:
When you consider the weight of a fountain, generally made of cement, concrete, enormous boulders, or a combination of all three, removing it once it is in place, after having realised that it detracts from the general ambiance of the garden - could be somewhat problematic. Indeed, let us not forget those monstrosities made of steel, where a crane may be the only way to get it in there to begin with.
If the water feature you are so desperate to have installed includes a pond, again, take your time considering all aspects of the design, before finalising anything. If your dream design is largish and deeper than 12 inches, you may need a license to have it installed, and probably a child-proof fence surrounding the whole thing, as well. If you discover these things after feature has been constructed and installed, it will be too late to be talking about garden ambiance.
Another, most important aspect to be considering, when thinking about installing a fountain, would be - is there a power source nearby? Without power, the pump that supplies the water to the top of the fountain, enabling it to then cascade down, creating that serene musicality that fountains are famous for - will not eventuate. Sort of like a mute fountain, if you will.
So, let us discuss the power situation. Strewing extension cords across your yard, is not only unattractive, but also down-right dangerous. Not only is this a cause for concern if you have children, but there is also the friends of your kids, the neighbors kids, lawn mowers, poorly slung shovels, puppies, and need we be reminded - careless adults. Draping leads through the overhanging branches, is not only tacky, but also dangerous during storms. AND it's all illegal. You are going to have to employ the services of a qualified electrician, who will bury the cable in a pipe. We are talking about electricity and water here, so, no mucking around. Sorry.
All sounds terribly gloomy, doesn't it. Rest assured, if you are only looking for a medium sized fountain, water feature, or pond, these days there are available an endless variety of fiberglass designs, of many colours. Most are delivered complete with pumps and all necessary fittings. Some are set up to be modular, as in, as time goes on you may wish to add another "piece" of pond or fountain, to your creation. Most of the parts in these unit are interchangeable, also. You still must address how you are going to get power to the set up. Be safe.
I hope this has given you something to think about, when deciding whether you really need a fountain in your garden, or not.
When you first decide to install a fountain, it would be advisable to put a lot of consideration into choosing one that will fit in with your garden's existing design. The same with any type of garden ornamentation, it must suit the general theme of the garden.
Will the water feature you are thinking of:
-- look out of place in your garden?
-- will it appear like it belongs there?
-- how will you be able to return it if you don't like it?
-- how are you going to get it home in the first place?
are there building code restrictions for stand-alone structures?
-- is there enough room where you want to put it?
-- does it come in any colour other than white?
-- will it attract ducks?
Changing your mind, after installation, may not be an option. Give some thought to the following:
When you consider the weight of a fountain, generally made of cement, concrete, enormous boulders, or a combination of all three, removing it once it is in place, after having realised that it detracts from the general ambiance of the garden - could be somewhat problematic. Indeed, let us not forget those monstrosities made of steel, where a crane may be the only way to get it in there to begin with.
If the water feature you are so desperate to have installed includes a pond, again, take your time considering all aspects of the design, before finalising anything. If your dream design is largish and deeper than 12 inches, you may need a license to have it installed, and probably a child-proof fence surrounding the whole thing, as well. If you discover these things after feature has been constructed and installed, it will be too late to be talking about garden ambiance.
Another, most important aspect to be considering, when thinking about installing a fountain, would be - is there a power source nearby? Without power, the pump that supplies the water to the top of the fountain, enabling it to then cascade down, creating that serene musicality that fountains are famous for - will not eventuate. Sort of like a mute fountain, if you will.
So, let us discuss the power situation. Strewing extension cords across your yard, is not only unattractive, but also down-right dangerous. Not only is this a cause for concern if you have children, but there is also the friends of your kids, the neighbors kids, lawn mowers, poorly slung shovels, puppies, and need we be reminded - careless adults. Draping leads through the overhanging branches, is not only tacky, but also dangerous during storms. AND it's all illegal. You are going to have to employ the services of a qualified electrician, who will bury the cable in a pipe. We are talking about electricity and water here, so, no mucking around. Sorry.
All sounds terribly gloomy, doesn't it. Rest assured, if you are only looking for a medium sized fountain, water feature, or pond, these days there are available an endless variety of fiberglass designs, of many colours. Most are delivered complete with pumps and all necessary fittings. Some are set up to be modular, as in, as time goes on you may wish to add another "piece" of pond or fountain, to your creation. Most of the parts in these unit are interchangeable, also. You still must address how you are going to get power to the set up. Be safe.
I hope this has given you something to think about, when deciding whether you really need a fountain in your garden, or not.
Monday, March 1, 2010
Re-planting Pot-bound as well as Open-rooted Plants
In the event that a recently purchased plant comes out of the pot very easily, plus isn't root-bound - re-plant it as it is. Do not worry should some of the soil drops off.
Should the potted plant be so newly potted-up, as to have not yet settled, you may find all of the soil falls away when you de-pot. Don't worry. To start with, never purchase from the same shop again. Then reclaim the fallen soil, re-incorporate it in with the new soil or potting-mix, then continue potting.
In the event that after you have removed the container and the plant is compacted with roots, or root-bound, more roots than potting-mix - you should pry them apart prior to re-potting. Sometimes you might need to cut the roots, if indeed the plant has been growing in the container too long.
These roots are cut like you would a melon, then tease the roots apart taking out any harmed material.Most likely a little trimming will be needed, as well. As the roots have been developing around and 'round the container, they could reach a great length, making re-planting difficult.
If you don't attend to this, the roots might carry on to growing as they were before. Even though the plant will carry on growing in it's new container, it's development is going to be slow and probably stunted.
If you find the plant is pot-bound, as well as in need of some root improvisation, again you may find yourself without soil close to the roots. Do not press the panic button. Do not purchase from that retailer again. Also, don't mix those roots and additional soil back into the new potting-soil. If you add this to the soil used in re-potting, as bits of roots begin to rot, this might produce problems for all the new roots trying to get a footing, and rot them too.
All damaged, bleeding, or loose roots ought to be eliminated. Either cut them back again to the base of the root, in the event that they are greatly damaged, or, if only lightly injured just back to some wholesome section from the root.
In each these cases, including bare-rooted stock, the soil-less roots ought to be placed, as much as is feasible, spread out over a small mound of soil within the pot. Being mindful of the original soil level about the plant and additionally, sticking to it, fill and firm with the potting-mix until you get to within an inch of the top of the pot.
Water thoroughly, or bathe the container in the bucket of water for 20 minutes, to remove any air pockets.
If you use the above info, you should have no trouble when re-potting container-bound or bare-rooted plants.
Should the potted plant be so newly potted-up, as to have not yet settled, you may find all of the soil falls away when you de-pot. Don't worry. To start with, never purchase from the same shop again. Then reclaim the fallen soil, re-incorporate it in with the new soil or potting-mix, then continue potting.
In the event that after you have removed the container and the plant is compacted with roots, or root-bound, more roots than potting-mix - you should pry them apart prior to re-potting. Sometimes you might need to cut the roots, if indeed the plant has been growing in the container too long.
These roots are cut like you would a melon, then tease the roots apart taking out any harmed material.Most likely a little trimming will be needed, as well. As the roots have been developing around and 'round the container, they could reach a great length, making re-planting difficult.
If you don't attend to this, the roots might carry on to growing as they were before. Even though the plant will carry on growing in it's new container, it's development is going to be slow and probably stunted.
If you find the plant is pot-bound, as well as in need of some root improvisation, again you may find yourself without soil close to the roots. Do not press the panic button. Do not purchase from that retailer again. Also, don't mix those roots and additional soil back into the new potting-soil. If you add this to the soil used in re-potting, as bits of roots begin to rot, this might produce problems for all the new roots trying to get a footing, and rot them too.
All damaged, bleeding, or loose roots ought to be eliminated. Either cut them back again to the base of the root, in the event that they are greatly damaged, or, if only lightly injured just back to some wholesome section from the root.
In each these cases, including bare-rooted stock, the soil-less roots ought to be placed, as much as is feasible, spread out over a small mound of soil within the pot. Being mindful of the original soil level about the plant and additionally, sticking to it, fill and firm with the potting-mix until you get to within an inch of the top of the pot.
Water thoroughly, or bathe the container in the bucket of water for 20 minutes, to remove any air pockets.
If you use the above info, you should have no trouble when re-potting container-bound or bare-rooted plants.
Re-planting Potted Plants Into the Yard
When you bring your new plants home from the nursery, garden center, or receive them by way of mail-order, it is really important to remove them from the packaging, or car boot, immediately. Damaged, bruised, or broken plant material ought to be clipped off.
Select a protected, low light area of your yard and water completely. Water should seep out the drain holes within the pot and the plant should really feel "weightier" right after watering. Ideally, a day before planting, soak the pot in a bucket of water to allow the plants to fully hydrate, allow any air bubbles within the pot to dissipate, and the plants adjust to their new surroundings.
Once you have decided the place best suited in your back garden for your new acquisition, dig a hole at least twice as big as the over all size of the pot. For larger potted plants, it might be much more effective to dig or turn an area of a garden bed. Not a bad idea to mix compost or potting mix, together with your native soil, to improve root development in your plant's new environment. Place a layer of the mixture in bottom of the hole and firm it lightly so the new specimen is not planted too deeply.
Carefully remove the plant from the container. It may help to tap the container down lightly on it's top edge, on a bench, or squeeze its sides, in order to loosen it.
Put the plant in the readied hole. Add or remove earth blend beneath the root mass to ensure that the top, where the root ball soil begins, is at the same level as the surrounding soil of the garden. Be mindful of any grafts, or branching near the root ball, and never have the soil near this! A distance of an inch is fine. Planting too deep is one of the main killers of new plant stock.
Once you have determined the plant's original earth level is equal to that of the surrounding soil, you are then able to begin back filling the soil mix close to the root-ball. Work your soil blend in firmly with your fingers among the root mass and also the around the hole until you've reached the original ground level. Do not over-tamp the soil, just make it firm.
When the hole is half to two thirds full, fill it with water - yes, FILL it. This will assist in eliminating any air bubbles trapped around the roots. The number two killer of newly planted stock is air bubbles around the roots. Waiting for the water to dissipate, back fill with the rest of the soil and lightly tamp, in order to leave a shallow depression around the outermost edge of the hole. This is for subsequent watering.
Finish the planting by applying a good 2"- 4" inch covering of mulch, advancing the mulch a foot or more from the center of the planting. Good mulch choices could be shredded bark, pine needles, hay, and even stones. Mulch will protect the roots from the heat of the sun, assist in moisture retention, and suppress weed development.
When you have finished, water thoroughly. You should see the water gathering in that shallow depression you have just made. Follow up with a minimum of weekly watering, until the plant appears to have taken - leaves looking healthy and shiny, if not new leaves. If leaves display indicators of wilting, but the earth is moist - do not panic. Some plants can take 10 days or more to start becoming established. Be patient. Replanting can be extremely traumatic and sometimes, newly planted stock will sit there and sulk for a bit.
Hopefully this has helped take away some of the questions you may have had about Re-planting Potted Plants Into the Yard.
Select a protected, low light area of your yard and water completely. Water should seep out the drain holes within the pot and the plant should really feel "weightier" right after watering. Ideally, a day before planting, soak the pot in a bucket of water to allow the plants to fully hydrate, allow any air bubbles within the pot to dissipate, and the plants adjust to their new surroundings.
Once you have decided the place best suited in your back garden for your new acquisition, dig a hole at least twice as big as the over all size of the pot. For larger potted plants, it might be much more effective to dig or turn an area of a garden bed. Not a bad idea to mix compost or potting mix, together with your native soil, to improve root development in your plant's new environment. Place a layer of the mixture in bottom of the hole and firm it lightly so the new specimen is not planted too deeply.
Carefully remove the plant from the container. It may help to tap the container down lightly on it's top edge, on a bench, or squeeze its sides, in order to loosen it.
Put the plant in the readied hole. Add or remove earth blend beneath the root mass to ensure that the top, where the root ball soil begins, is at the same level as the surrounding soil of the garden. Be mindful of any grafts, or branching near the root ball, and never have the soil near this! A distance of an inch is fine. Planting too deep is one of the main killers of new plant stock.
Once you have determined the plant's original earth level is equal to that of the surrounding soil, you are then able to begin back filling the soil mix close to the root-ball. Work your soil blend in firmly with your fingers among the root mass and also the around the hole until you've reached the original ground level. Do not over-tamp the soil, just make it firm.
When the hole is half to two thirds full, fill it with water - yes, FILL it. This will assist in eliminating any air bubbles trapped around the roots. The number two killer of newly planted stock is air bubbles around the roots. Waiting for the water to dissipate, back fill with the rest of the soil and lightly tamp, in order to leave a shallow depression around the outermost edge of the hole. This is for subsequent watering.
Finish the planting by applying a good 2"- 4" inch covering of mulch, advancing the mulch a foot or more from the center of the planting. Good mulch choices could be shredded bark, pine needles, hay, and even stones. Mulch will protect the roots from the heat of the sun, assist in moisture retention, and suppress weed development.
When you have finished, water thoroughly. You should see the water gathering in that shallow depression you have just made. Follow up with a minimum of weekly watering, until the plant appears to have taken - leaves looking healthy and shiny, if not new leaves. If leaves display indicators of wilting, but the earth is moist - do not panic. Some plants can take 10 days or more to start becoming established. Be patient. Replanting can be extremely traumatic and sometimes, newly planted stock will sit there and sulk for a bit.
Hopefully this has helped take away some of the questions you may have had about Re-planting Potted Plants Into the Yard.
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